Artists have explored glass from as early as 15th Century BC, no wonder it plays such a significant part in the world’s history!  Throughout the world, beads of many shapes and styles have been unearthed.  A myriad of materials, including glass have been used in making these masterpieces. Fossus, literally meaning "having been dug up" is the current inspiration for the advanced skilled bead artist and jewelry designer.

There is a stream of crafters and artists alike trying their hand at the latest glass bead craze. Stemming from an acute interest in the craft and through perfecting their workmanship abilities, many have become masters of this art.  Much of these artisans are self-representing in their offerings to the public.  Ranging from color to hardness (COE), this complex medium offers the artists a vast pallet to choose from.

These master artists are well aware of the dangers in mixing glass of various hardness levels as many pitfalls do occur.  If one was to make a bead from multiple COE glass, cracking and breaking will surely occur either during the bead-making process or within a short period of time after the piece has been made. 

Bead styles are as endless as their maker’s imagination.  From a simple one-color glass bead to the most detailed and ornate piece of artistry that has been adorning Pharaohs, Kings and every-day people alike.  It is a medium full of opportunity.

Imagination is not the only limit to this art.   A round bead with raised decorations, several appendages, or even one with unconventional items incorporated into the glass goes through a grueling course.  This process requires exact calculations; from its shape, style, color, type of glass…… to the amount of time that it will require to be kiln annealed and cleaning the piece.  A bead maker is much more then an artist, a bead maker is a master craftsman!  All of which sets these beads apart from the mass produced, sweat-shop style import beads. 

As many glass artists, jewelry designers and informed buyers are aware, the significant differences in the beads from self-representing artists and the mass-produced imports have been drastically understated or ignored due to the allure of cheap pricing.  Much of the "value" beads have few additions and decorations –– and those that do can be of such poor quality that they may not adhere to the bead for more then a few wearings. 

Please be aware of the fact that many advertise their "value" beads as "artist-made beads" and "lampworked beads."   These items are machine made or mass produced and little longevity is to be expected.  Basic economics simply don’t allow for an intricate, hand-worked bead to be priced as low as some vendors charge…… just ask any artist!  The old adage applies here, "you get what you pay for."  There is strong evidence that these imports are not properly kiln annealed or cleaned in a manner keeping with a usable, quality product expected to be found in any jewelry making project or high-end gift emporium.  Luckily, many experienced buyers are educated enough to know if they are looking at a mass-produced product or a one of a kind, high quality piece of wearable art.

As the fate of masters from the days gone by, true value of art doesn’t manifest until sufficient time goes by.  Millions of dollars are being swayed between art lovers and jewelry dealers, while the artist is being remembered through his work.  This is why quality and expertise are invaluable when making an investment.  Whether on a pedestal at a high-end jeweler, or on your daughter’s neck (something old, something new), the piece has to last!

One of the best ways to ensure that your money is well spent is to know your artist.  If they sell on an auction site; check what others have had to say about their creations.  Send them e-mails asking for more pictures, what type of glass they use, the COE - the more detailed and technical the questions, the more assurance you have that the artist knows their craft (assuming they have an answer for you).

While this is not at all conclusive, there are many other ways to ensure that you are getting a quality product that lasts through several lifetimes.  As for me, I cannot imagine a more comforting thought then being able to provide integrity in workmanship.   It would be great to have the assurance that the glass used in the finished pieces that I've bought would stand the test of time.  How fitting to have a lasting legacy to you and for future generations to enjoy.   Just think, one day your creations could be unearthed in an archaeological dig and people will immediately be able to say, I know who created that!

Beware of poorly made, unannealed beads!

EDITOR'S NOTE

Jewelry Designer – What you may not know could hurt your business.  

Why is it so important to purchase properly annealed beads?

As a jewelry designer, you want to offer your clients a piece of jewelry that they will be able to pass on to their daughters, grand-daughters and so on and so forth.   Purchasing quality hand made glass beads will help to ensure that your pieces will last generations.  The quality of lampwork beads you use in your jewelry designs speak volumes of your work.  It will be what people will remember about your designs and you.   A broken lampwork bead not only makes your designs look bad, but it tells your client that you did not do your homework and did not seek out the quality that they deserve.  This could cause your client to lose trust in the integrity of your work and, more likely than not, buy from another.

What is an “Annealer” and more importantly, what exactly is Annealing?  

When glass artists speak of an annealer, they are usually referring to the kiln which they use for the annealing process of their glass art beads.

Glass which is worked in a flame must be annealed.  Glass, when heated, expands; and when cooled, it contracts.   Once the artist has made the bead, the glass has expanded.  If allowed to cool too rapidly, the outside of the bead will cool much faster than the inside of the bead.  In other words, the outside glass is contracting faster than the inside.  The different rates at which the outside and inside of the glass bead cools and contracts causes stress on the glass.  This stress could, and most likely will, cause the glass to crack.   Glass which is worked in a flame, but is not properly kiln annealed is almost always guaranteed to break.  The bead may not crack immediately, it could take a month or even a year, but it will crack eventually.

The annealing process is what helps to remove the stress from the glass.  By allowing the temperature in the kiln to reach what is called the annealing temperature and then keeping or “soaking” the glass at that temperature for a period of time, the stress is allowed to be gradually released from the glass.    After the “soaking” period, the temperature is reduced following a schedule specific to the type of glass being used in order to slowly cool the bead down.  Most modern bead makers use a digital controller for this since it is important not to cool the bead too quickly which would only make for an inferior bead.     

Keeping this in mind while you are shopping for that perfect bead to use in your jewelry designs will help ensure that you are purchasing a quality piece of glass art that will last for years to come.   Your efforts will reflect in your designs and will most certainly give your clients confidence and assurance that you know what you are doing.  Let them know that you care about the quality that you are providing to them.  A